42 miles of narrow road wind through the cliffs, waterfalls, and bamboo forests along Maui's northern coastline to Hana. On the remote east side of the island where the slopes of Haleakalā meet the ocean, the crowds are sparser and the area wilder. For Maui denizens, making the trek is a pilgrimage, a rite of passage. We loaded up the Legend with camping gear and set off to explore.
Hana itself is a small town with fewer than 1,000 people. The tourists have a presence, but nonetheless the hotel exists alongside the local cattle ranches. A short walk from the town, Red Sand Cove is walled off by steep cliffs and the ocean, and feels solitary despite the proximity. True to the name, the sand is a deep volcanic crimson.
When we arrived, a 7 ft. Hawaiian Monk Seal was resting on the beach. Called ʻIlio-holo-i-ka-uaua ("dog that runs in rough seas") by the locals, the animal is critically endangered, with about 1,200 left in the world and only about 150 on the Hawaiian islands. The seal ignored us and after an hour disappeared into the water.
Maui may be overrun with vacationers, honeymooners, cruise ship shoregoers, and freelance writers, but there are still plenty of places off the beaten path to uncover.
